Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2019: the essentials
Our feedback on the main Spring-Summer 2019 trends from Fashion Week as seen in London, Milan and Paris.
Celine gets decked out in sequins
The Celine show. Expectations were running particularly high for this show during the Paris Fashion Week, and deservedly so, for Hedi Slimane has taken over as the luxury house’s Artistic Director. Hedi was formerly at the artistic helm of Saint Laurent and Dior Homme, but had taken a break from fashion for a few years. Naturally enough, his return created a spin. He made his debut show for the Celine house at Les Invalides, setting his models in a crystal cocoon.
Hedi Slimane’s statement for this season came as a dazzlingly delicate, laid-back feminine collection. The Celine show teemed with silhouettes dressed to party… tapered, feminine dresses decked out in sequins galore. Hedi Slimane reworked the sequins to bring them right up to date.
Prada made room for nostalgia with its satin headbands
The famous Italian house founded in Milan in 1913 decided to take the wraps off its collection in its Rem Koolhass-designed Fondazione Prada art centre. As its Artistic Director who oversees all the collections, Miuccia, the great-granddaughter of the luxury label’s founder Mario Prada, presented a conformist collection with techno non-conformist details.
For her Spring-Summer 2019 season, the Italian creator treated the Sixties look to a facelift…. brightly-coloured satin in abundance, knee-length tulip skirts, fitted satin, wool or leather coats. Nostalgic flashbacks punctuated the Prada show. The big accessory came in the form of a headband… and at Prada, this means both fluo and pastel shades of satin. We predict they will be a major trend in 2019.
Loewe’s women tread the ground in hand-made boots
Luxury brand Loewe presented its Spring-Summer 2019 collection at the UNESCO HQ. Jonathan Anderson, the Madrid fashion house’s Artistic Director, delights in working with textures and styles, and also with design and art in his decidedly off-beat set. Guests were asked to wait in temporary exhibition rooms, where artworks were displayed such as Joe Hogan’s basket structures or Ryoji Koie’s ceramics.
The Irish designer readily makes references to the house’s know-how with its timelessly styled wardrobe. We were struck by his equestrian-inspired garments and long silk shirts. The models clad in silk dresses strolled the catwalk shod in leather boots with wide straps. The backpacker-inspired footwear set off surprisingly elegant, sophisticated contrasts.
Paco Rabanne’s woman of the future draped in chains
The venue chosen for the jaw-dropping mixture of Seventies touches and futuristic influences served up during the Paco Rabanne show was the Grand Palais. The luxury label’s Artistic Director, Julien Dossena turned out a funkily-tuned wardrobe replete with metallic materials, bright colours, chic asymmetry and pixel motifs.
The Artistic Director achieves his ultra-contemporary style by accessorizing the outfits with rows of silvery chains draped around his models’ necks or chain handbag straps, and even overlapping medals.
Burberry returns to its roots with the iconic beige
Riccardo Tisci presented his first show, “Kingdom”, for the House of Burberry for Fashion Week London, in the old Nine Elms postal sorting offices. This red-letter appointment kept the fashion pundits guessing as to whether the trend would be streetwear or ladylike. Riccardo Tisci combined the two to a tee by presenting a streetwear collection for the men and a ladylike collection for the women.
The Artistic Director updated the house’s iconic colour, beige, by replacing its legendary checks with vertical lines.